Baker Street: Fall’s First Flavors
September ushers in apples and pears to replace the softer berries and stone fruits of summer. I love using fruit, often roasted with fresh herbs, in savory dishes, and these sweet pears make a natural foil for the tangy but creamy blue cheese. Here, I’ve combined the two flavors in a risotto that is unusual but unforgettable for delivering the first flavors of fall.
Risotto with Pears and Gorgonzola Dolce
4 servings
3 dense, firm pears such as Bosc or Comice
1 Tbsp. butter
4 small sprigs of thyme
1 Tbsp. good quality balsamic vinegar
2 Tbsp. boiled cider (available in specialty food stores or online) or 1/2 cup regular apple cider
4 Tbsp. olive oil
1 1/2 cups Carnaroli or Arborio Rice
1 medium onion, finely chopped
4 cups vegetable (or chicken) stock, kept hot in a saucepan
2 Tbsp. soft butter
1/4 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese
salt and pepper to taste
scant quarter-pound Gorgonzola dolce, cut into pieces
salt and pepper to taste
First, prepare the pears. Peel, quarter, and core the pears. Cut each quarter in half.
Heat the butter over medium heat in a sauté pan large enough to hold all the pear slices. Once the foaming subsides, add the thyme sprigs and pears to the pan.
Gently brown the pears on two sides. Remove the slices to a plate or board and set aside. Remove the thyme sprigs and discard. Add the vinegar and the boiled cider to the hot pan. Cook until the two blend and reduce to a slightly thickened syrup. (If using apple cider, this will take longer.) Return the pears to the pan and turn in the syrup to coat. Remove the pan from the heat for now.
Place a large shallow Dutch sauté pan over medium heat. Add the oil and, once hot, add the onion.
Cook slowly, stirring often, so that it doesn’t brown. Add the rice and stir to coat with the oil. Cook gently until it becomes translucent. Add a pinch of salt.
Add a couple of ladlefuls of broth to the rice. Stir constantly after you add the broth. Once most of the liquid has evaporated, add more broth and keep stirring the rice. Continue adding broth by the ladleful as it is absorbed, and cook while stirring until the rice is al dente, or just barely tender. If you need more liquid, simply heat some water to finish. This will take about 30 minutes, give or take, as you aim for cooked but still al dente rice and a creamy rather than thick and dry texture.
When the rice is ready, remove the pot from the heat and add half the Gorgonzola and the butter, cut into pieces. Stir these into the rice and cover the pan. Let rest for two minutes.
Turn on the heat under the pears; set it to low and let them warm up again while you finish the risotto.
Uncover the risotto pot and add the remaining Gorgonzola and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Stir until creamy.
Immediately spoon the risotto between four warmed individual bowls. Top with the pear slices. Serve with freshly ground pepper and extra shaved parmesan, if desired. Bon Appétit!
